Centromerkur, Trubarjeva 1 (Preeren Square)
(Temporarily closed due to renovation). Centromerkur is Ljubljana's oldest living department store, and it might really be best to think of it more as a museum exhibit than as a place for any serious shopping. The splendid Art Nouveau facade and foyer contrast all too starkly with the store's mediocre selection of goods, most of them, moreover, arrayed behind counters so that you have to point and ask. Clothing, sporting goods, household items and textiles are among the pickings here.
Maximarket, Trg republike 1, 01/476 68 00
This compact socialist-era building packs a lot in: stationery, perfumes and such on the ground floor, clothing on the first, domestic appliances and textiles on the second. Prices are higher here, but selection is good. The basement boasts the largest supermarket in Ljubljana's center, plus an underground mall featuring various shops and the Cankarjev dom ticket office. There are even several in-house eateries here, ranging from ritzy Maxi to cheapo Restaurant 2000.
Metalka, Dalmatinova 2, 01/431 11 55, Mon to Fri 9am to 7pm, Sat 9am to 1pm
Located in a dull high-rise off Mikloič Park, Metalka features numerous small boutiques on its recently redesigned but still rather confusing ground floor. From there, head downstairs for the biggest selection of tools and hardware in the city center (plus audio equipment and lighting fixtures), or upstairs for clothing, household appliances, kitchen and bathroom fixtures, and other furnishings. Not exactly an attractive place to shop, but the prices and quality are good.
Müller, Čopova 40, 01/200 24 00
Not so much a department store as a conglomeration of large specialty shops, one on each floor. The basement has domestic goods, the ground floor oozes perfume, while the first floor is a well-stocked drugstore. There are kitchenwares and appliances on the second floor, lots of toys on the third, and one of downtown Ljubljana's largest CD shops on the fourth. You'll note a heavy emphasis on imported goods here, especially Austrian and German stuff. The odd escalator layout helps you keep fit.
Nama, Tomičeva 1, 01/425 83 00
While it doesn't necessarily have the cheapest prices or best choice in every section, Nama's decades-long tradition and totally central location make it Ljubljana's favorite department store. The ground floor offers magazines, perfumes, stationery and a Benetton shop, with food and services in the adjacent arcade. You'll find clothing on the first and second floors, domestic appliances and textiles on the third, and youth apparel at the top.
Bukvarna, no exact address or phone - located on Slovenska across from the Ursuline Church, open Tues and Thurs 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 6pm
Though somewhat dim and dusty, this subterranean labyrinth of used books holds the promise of endless discovery. There's a special section for fiction in English (and other languages) in the well-concealed annex, but you'll also find English books mixed into many other sections, so take your time looking. You pay by the weight here, and never pay much.
Kod in kam, Trg francoske revolucije 7, 01/200 27 32
Located just around the bend from the National Library, this little corner shop has the biggest range of maps in Ljubljana, including detailed maps of individual regions, cities and natural areas in Slovenia. Also stocks plenty of postcards and a wide array of guidebooks, though many are in Slovene only.
Konzorcij, Slovenska 29, 01/425 01 96
Far and away the biggest and best selection of books in town. So it's no wonder that Konzorcij also has the widest array of foreign-language books maybe half of all the titles here are in English. This dead-center downtown store is particularly strong on travel, social sciences, and the arts, and also has a huge selection of English-based foreign language learning books, so you can start studying Ukrainian or Urdu right here in Ljubljana.
Novak, Wolfova 8, 01/425 78 23
Just a step or two away from Prešernov trg, this bright, cheerful bookstore has a great selection of literature, art books, travel guides and esoteric matter. At least one third of Novak's stock is in English, except for the large children's literature section in the back. They've also got lots of books in French, and a fair amount in German. And the store boasts big, comfortable chairs for idling over a prospective purchase.
Oxford Centre, Kopitarjeva 2, Mon to Fri 8am to 7pm, Sat 8am to 1pm
Just one block south of the Dragon Bridge, Oxford stocks an enormous range of materials for people learning or teaching English, including all manner of dictionaries, books on methodology, and critical editions of English literature. They've also got probably the largest selection in town of those cheapo reprints of classic novels, as well as maps and travels books.
Big Bang Music, BTC, 01/587-3573, Mon to Fri 8:30am to 8pm, Sat 8:30am to 8pm
Ljubljana's biggest music shop is part of the Big Bang entertainment complex, which sprawls over 3 separate buildings connected together by a walkway at the BTC shopping center. On the top floor you'll all major genres of music, as well as listening stations alongside a refreshing cafe. Big Bang also stocks blank tapes and CDs, videos, DVDs and lots of other AV accessories.
Dallas Mute Shop, Rimska 14, Mon to Fri 10am to 7pm, Sat 9am to 1pm
Small indie record shop halfway between Slovenska and the university. Features what is probably the best selection of dance/techno/electronic music in town. Also has pop, jazz, world music, reggae, even some major label stuff. The shop interior has been decorated to the point of distraction.
DZS, Trg francoske revolucije 6, Mon to Fri 10am to 5pm, Sat 10am to 1pm
Ljubljana's only classical music shop, featuring a large selection of mainly standard repertoire and well-known composers, but also a few surprises. Big import labels like DG, Teldec, Marco Polo and EMI are heavily featured, and prices are fairly high, as you'd expect. Also stocks sheet music.
Müller, Čopova 40, 01/200 24 00
The top floor of the popular Müller "superstore" boasts downtown Ljubljana's largest selection of CDs. The quality, however, varies from section to section: pop and world music are well covered, dance or classical less so. Also stocks blank cassettes, headphones and other audio paraphernalia. More listening stations than anywhere else in town, but you still might have to wait a while.
Music Box, Levstikov trg 1a, 01/126 20 62, Mon to Sat 9:30am to 10pm, Sun 5 to 7pm
Small south-central music store with an especially good collection of "Yugo-nostalgia" discs. For the uninitiated, this simply means music from the former Yugoslavia, everything from unplugged ethno to slick disco-pop. Merely decent selection of other genres. Doubling as a video and DVD rental outfit gives Music Box those extra long opening hours.
Antika Ferjan, Mestni trg 21, 01/426 18 15
Antikvariat Tizian, Ključavničarska 3, 01/426 41 84
Carniola Antiqua, Trubarjeva 9, 01/231 63 97
Galerija Ars, Čevljarska 2, 01/251 80 75
Ljubljana Flea Market, Cankarjevo nabrjžežje (near the Triple Bridge), Sundays from 8am to 1pm
Rudnik Flea Market, Sunday mornings 8am to 1pm. A great place to snoop around for second-hand goods, nick-nacks, old Yugoslav army gear, etc. Take bus no. 3 to Rudnik, exit at the last stop.
Emporium, Letalika 3 (BTC), 01/584 48 00. The largest selection of fashion wear and popular brands in Slovenia.
Frey Wille, Mestni trg 8, 01/421 03 15. Unique and colorful collections of artistically themed accessories.
Tomislav Laboda, Wolfova 6, 01/251 62 95; Dunajska 58, 01/436 22 22. Beautifully designed watches, rings, gemstones and other jewelry in classy, timeless styles.
Home & Kitchen
Čajni kotiček Cha, Stari trg 3, 01/421 24 44. Vast selection of loose tea, china ware, and much more.
Dom trgovina, Ciril-Metodov trg 5, 01/231-2750; Mestni trg 24, 01/252-1133. Everything for the kitchen.
Ljubljanček, Mikloičeva 1 (inside Grand Hotel Union), 01/308 12 70
Rustika, Ljubljana Castle, 01/251 77 33. Good selection of hand-crafted gifts for the home.
Skrina, Breg 8, Tel: 425-5161.
Enoteca Wine Bar, Nazorjeva 12, 01/42 57 106
Movia Wine Bar & Shop, Mestni trg 1, 01/425 54 48
Vinoteka Bradesko, Dunajska 18, 01/425 26 80
Vinoteka Dvor, Dvorni trg 1, 01/251-3644
For further gift ideas, visit our Holiday Shopping Guide.
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