Ljubljana Life

Winter (Sports) Wonderland

Carving up conventional wisdom in the Alps.

by bob ramsak

To most snow sport enthusiasts, the words “Slovenia” and “skiing” don’t necessarily go hand-in-hand. Less known as a winter destination than its neighbors Italy and Austria, it’s often overlooked – or not considered at all—when winter getaways are planned. But if it’s short trips that you’re after, whether for an afternoon, a day or two (or even three), you might want to reconsider that conventional wisdom. Because that wisdom is increasingly becoming less and less conventional.

Why?

Well, there’s a very good reason that a mountain figures prominently on the nation’s flag. Slovenia shares the same Alps as its neighbors, who actually respected the offerings here enough to include the country in a unique three-nation Olympic hosting bid. The mountain villages and rapidly improving resorts are quickly catching up to those of its neighbors while still maintaining their Slovenian uniqueness. Elan, an international staple in ski shops, is home here, as are several of the world’s top skiers. (Not to mention, some of the world’s top mountaineers.) With a pair of stops on the FIS World Cup circuit, the best skiers in the world pass through Slovenia each winter. If it’s good enough for them…

With the country’s compact charm, the mountains are never very far from wherever you might happen to be. This is particularly true for the capital Ljubljana, which is more or less centrally located. Some foreign tour operators are already starting to catch on; with the makeovers of resorts and lifts that began more than a decade ago continuing steadily, more will begin to follow suit. Throw in package prices and deals that are --for now-- more affordable than those of Slovenia's neighbors, you really have little reason to not cut that meeting short or add another day or two to your stay and escape to the slopes.

Of the 15 or so ski areas in Slovenia, for day-trippers from Ljubljana, Krvavec (www.rtc-krvavec.si) is the place to begin. Not only is it the closest, but many avid Slovenian skiers consider it, tolar for tolar, the best deal in the country. Situated in the Karavanke Alps just 30 kilometers north of the capital (in addition to ample parking, seasonal buses run from the main station), it’s the easiest way to scratch your impulsive skiing itch.

Krvavec has 11 lifts and 23 runs (35 kilometers in all), a wide enough range suitable for beginners as well as those more seasoned with runs varying in length to 4.5 kilometers. A six-person gondola takes visitors up to the top of the 1971 meter high Zvoh, affording beautiful views of the Kamnik Alps to the west. There’s also a separate area for snowboarders, complete with a half-pipe and several jumps. Like all the ski resorts listed here, there is equipment rental on site, and several traditional gostilnas in the area. It may seem the ideal quick and easy destination, but be warned though, weekends can be crowded. Day passes 5600 SIT (23 euros), half days from 4600 (19 euros).

Krajnska Gora (www.kranjska-gora.si), in Slovenia’s northwest corner near the Italian and Austrian borders, is the best known from Slovenia’s offering; less than 100 kilometers from Ljubljana, it too provides quick and easy access.

This picturesque village, nestled against the foothills of the Julian Alps, is the center of five main ski areas, which again, are suitable for beginner and aspiring Olympian alike. Setting Krajnska Gora apart from the others though, is that this is a full throttle resort, but like many of Slovenia’s attractions, it’s compact enough to do everything on foot. The vast majority of the town’s hotels, restaurants and other attractions are all within walking distance of the lower ski areas. Podkoren, at the western corner of the area, hosts the World Cup in January. Besides skiing and boarding, there’s also an ice skating rink, and for those who prefer to spend at least part of their winters indoors, a pair of casinos. With its 19 lifts, Kranjska Gora can handle up to 19,000 skiers per hour. There are trails up to 10 kilometers in length, plus another 40 for cross country enthusiasts. Daily passes start at 25 euros this winter, with night skiing (19:00 to 22:00) for 17 euros. More skiing specific info at www.kr-gora.si.

Offering another picturesque setting and ski center is the well-known village of Bohinj, on the edge of the country’s vast Triglav National Park. Four main areas – Vogel, Kobla, Soriska Planina, and Pokljuka—are situated around the alpine lake town, providing another all-around location for winter fun and frolic. Although Vogel offers just eight lifts and tows, its ideal setting provides ample opportunity for the adventurous to wander off-trail as well. Kobla, in nearby Slovenska Bistrica, is the only Slovenian ski resort accessible by train. (see www.slo-zeleznice.si for timetables). Besides downhill and cross country skiing, sledding is also popular here. (More on Bohinj’s ski areas at www.bohinj.si/sport/winter_sports_en.html).

Kanin, overlooking the western town of Bovec in the Soca River Valley, is the highest ski center in the country, the only resort above the 2000 meter point. Typically, Slovenian skiers end their season here, sometimes after the May 1 holiday. Besides its altitude, Kanin is unique in that it provides the opportunity to ski in three countries: at the Sella Nevea and Tarvisio ski resorts in Italy and at the Arnoldstein ski resort in Austria. If you buy a six or seven day Kanin pass, you can ski free for two days at these neighboring resorts. Visit www.bovec.net/kanin/index.html for more on Kanin).

While the Alps become less dramatic heading east from Ljubljana, the skiing is not.

Rogla, near the city of Zre~e, has been a year-round Olympic center since 1997, where winter fun-lovers will find plenty of good skiing, as well as a fully-equipped recreation center, health resort, and more -- all situated at 1500 meters above sea level. A host to World Cup and European Cup events, Rogla’s 13 lifts again provide an ample selection of runs. Cross country and snowboard specialists are very welcome as well. (www.rogla.si)

Further east, just outside of Maribor, Slovenia’s second largest city, is another favorite of the country’s true skiing aficionados. With its 20 lifts and tows, the Mariborsko Pohorje range that frames the city to the south offers some of the finest skiing in the country. And unique to a major metropolitan area, the gondolas can be reached by city bus. Its illuminated five-kilometer ski run is the longest in Europe.

Mariborsko Pohorje hosts the Zlata Lisica, or Golden Fox each January, the annual women’s World Cup alpine ski races. Each race weekend is one of the city’s biggest annual parties; typically more than 25,000 fans attend, among the largest audiences anywhere for women’s skiing competition. (Check out www.pohorje.org for more).

Even if hitting the downhill slopes isn’t your cup of tea, Slovenia’s mountains and snow offer plenty of other possibilities.

Virtually all of the country’s ski areas offer well-groomed cross country trails, and for those looking for an even more extreme experience, guided ski touring packages are readily available. Contact the tourist board for the area you’re most interested in exploring.

Slovenia is a land of mountain hikers whose passion doesn’t hibernate during the winter months. More than seven thousand kilometers of trails wind through Slovenia’s mountains and valleys, and some remain open and accessible during the winter months, providing plenty of hiking opportunities in each of the country’s regions.

There are other options as well. Highly trained specialized tour operators offer everything from ice climbing – ever thought about scaling a frozen waterfall? – to snow shoeing, snow rafting and paragliding. If this suits your fancy, begin with a look through the city of Bovec's website (www.bovec.si), Slovenia’s unofficial extreme sports capital.

The snow’s already here. And hopefully, so are you. What are you waiting for?